The basic setting is a combination of shims and different gates in the piston. This setting can only be adjusted by Proflex service mechanics. Proflex has made their shocks adjustable so that the driver can set up his vehicle to different racetracks, wheather conditions, etc. This allows him to change the characteristics of his shocks. The latest Proflex shock absorbers have three '26-clicks' adjusting screws. Compression damping consist of 2 parts: Low speed (slow movements) High speed (fast movements) A seperate adjusting screw let you adjust the rebound. |
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Moving the adjusters in a clockwise direction “increases” the amount of damping, conversely moving in an anticlockwise direction “reduces” the amount of damping. |
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DO NOT hold low speed adjuster whilst making high speed adjustments. Again move in clockwise direction to “increase” damping, and moving in an anticlockwise direction “reduces” the amount of damping. |
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Photographs show the various types of
rebound adjuster positions. |
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Chosing the right spring is very important, but also the position of the wheels (like camber, caster and wheel alignment) have a big influence on the final result. Also keep an eye on your tyre pressure and temperature. Have your test session on a track that's close to the type of racing you do, and with a variety of corners. Keep in mind that you will have to do several laps to get the best results. |
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| - Turn all the adjusting
screws to the left for the softest setup.
- Have a test drive and try to analyse the behaviour of the car in different circumstances, like braking, accelerating, curves and bumps. - Try to know on which domain the damping force is insufficient: low speed compression, high speed compression or rebound. - Work in one domain at a time to keep adjusting easy. - Increase the amount of damping in one domain by turning the adjusting screw to the right. A Proflex shock has 26 clicks. - In the beginning of your setup you can turn the screw 4 or 5 clicks at a time to clearly feel the difference. Later on you can do some fine tuning by only turning the screw 1 or 2 clicks at a time. - Try to have a good setup after three test drives. - When you can only come to a good result having the screws turned totally closed you have to see your Proflex dealer. He will then adjust your basic setting for you. |
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- during acceleration the back of the car sinks too much - during braking the front of the car sinks too much |
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- loss of traction whilst accelerating - loss of grip whilst braking - less smooth turning into a corner |
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- the wheel comes off the ground when driving fast over an obstacle - when driving into a pit or hole the damper is unable to absorb the weight of the car and he fully closes |
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- the car follows the contours of the road too much - heavy shocks are absorbed by the bodywork of the car - loss of traction - the car comes off the ground when driving fast over an obstacle |
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- the car feels loose (the car is too loose on its springs) - the bodywork lifts in corners |
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- the car feels too hard - the car jumps too much over the road - loss of traction - longer brake distance - the whole car falls into a pit or hole, while only the wheel is supposed to do that |
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